Grunge Revisited: From the Streets of Seattle to Today's Catwalks

September 20, 2024

Kurt Cobain materialises on stage, microphone tight, hair covering his face in a dance of rebellion and poetry. Smashed guitars and dives into the audience: grunge is more than music, it's a ritual of belonging. The image fades, transforming like vinyl that jumps between eras. Suddenly, we're on a bright catwalk, where bored models parade in silk flannels and artistically ripped jeans. "Ask Kurt Cobain what it feels like to stand on a pedestal and not fall"... the true story, like all true stories, is written with the scars of life.

It all began in Seattle, the early 1980s: incessant rain creates a liquid carpet reflecting neon from underground clubs. The air is thick with smoke. In damp, smelly garages, amplifiers buzz and distorted guitars scream rage at an incomprehensible system. Here, among shoddy equipment and poster-covered walls, the raw sounds that would define an era were born. These claustrophobic spaces become incubators of creativity and rebellion, forging grunge's signature sound in darkness and chaos. Young people in oversized flannels and worn jeans march like an army of the disillusioned. Grunge was born here, between wet streets and hearts full of anger and hope, not as fashion, but as necessity.

As time passes, images overlap. The icons of grunge transform: Eddie Vedder's flannel becomes haute couture, Courtney Love's torn dress a collector's item... from street movement to global phenomenon, the evolution is palpable. Legendary album covers come to life: Nirvana's baby, a symbol of violated innocence; the Soundgarden forest, an invitation to the depths of the soul; the hand of Pearl Jam, connection and challenge. Jerry Cantrell creates heavy riffs and melancholic melodies. Chaotic concerts display raw energy that is unchanged over time. Worn Dr Martens, holey jeans reveal the scars of an unprotected youth. Soft flannel shirts embrace a hostile world. Here lies the soul of grunge, a current of authenticity that flows beneath the shiny surface of contemporary fashion, resisting superficial changes.

Mudhoney, photo Cherry Red Courtney Love, 1990. KMazur Soundgarden in Seattle, 1987. Photo by Charles Peterson

Mudhoney, photo Cherry Red / Courtney Love, 1990. KMazur / Soundgarden in Seattle, 1987. Photo by Charles Peterson

Grunge: The Anti-Fashion That Changed Everything

Naomi Campbell and Kristen McMenamyPhotographed by Steven Meisel, Vogue, December 1992

Naomi Campbell and Kristen McMenamyPhotographed by Steven Meisel, Vogue, December 1992

We find ourselves catapulted into 1993. Marc Jacobs presents his collection for Perry Ellis. The models parade with looks that interpret "Seattle" in every tear, in every accessory designed to appear casual. The public's gazes oscillate between shock and fascination. Mainstream fashion has just undergone an earthquake that will change the stylistic panorama forever for the simple reason of having brought unconventional fashion to the catwalk, the one widespread on the streets, which simulated an almost total indifference to fashion, not rigid with respect to usual glossy luxury. While some critics claimed that "Grunge is horrible", it officially entered high fashion, never to leave it again. Fast forward. We are in the present, but the echoes of the past still resonate. Red carpets, streets of big cities, everywhere we look, we see grunge mixed with contemporary elements in a stylistic cocktail that tastes of nostalgia and the future at the same time. Here is Timothée Chalamet in an artfully creased suit, worn over a vintage t-shirt. And then there's Billie Eilish, who with her unique style seems to have come out of '91, but with a futuristic touch that projects her into tomorrow. Her approach to grunge is a bridge between past and future, a reinterpretation that respects the roots of the movement while pushing it towards new horizons; Jared Leto, on the other hand, oscillates between Hollywood glamour and 90s Seattle with ease; Harry Styles challenges every genre convention with his fluid approach to grunge, proving that true rebellion lies in being authentically yourself. Contemporary grunge isn't just about celebrities and catwalks. Just as grunge was never born, except as a marketing category, it never died either. He continued to live underground. It has resisted trends and disorientation. Artists like Torres, Yuck, and Wolf Alice have continued the legacy of grunge, reinterpreting it for a new generation.

Sophie wears cardigan Scotch & Soda, T-shirt Goldsmith Vintage, trousers Tommy Hilfiger, ring Dominic Jones, Photo: David Vail Yannis Drakoulidis / Metro Goldwyn Mayer Pictures

Sophie wears cardigan Scotch & Soda, T-shirt Goldsmith Vintage, trousers Tommy Hilfiger, ring Dominic Jones, Photo: David Vail / Yannis Drakoulidis / Metro Goldwyn Mayer Pictures

Psylo Raw Power

The scene changes, and we find ourselves in front of clothes arranged on the Psylo counters inside our work spaces, where expert hands give voice to the ideas of our designers, creating, sewing and giving life to Psylo Raw Power, our new collection that begins its journey where the grunge movement ended. In the 1990s, Seattle and surrounding cities saw the rise of a mentality of cynicism towards glamor, social norms and conformity. Inspired by this rejection of mainstream culture, we embraced individuality and imperfections, reflected in guitars played in lower keys and with a raw sound. Our garments feature clean cuts, unconventional color dyes and quality cotton stitching, creating durable and timeless everyday wear. The Psylo collection celebrates various grunge bands such as Melvins, Green River, Candlebox, Hammerbox and Mudhoney, targeting true music fans. Through these elements, we try to capture the essence of grunge, reinterpreting the contemporary context without losing its original spirit.

Melvins, Photo by Chris Casel Melvins by Joel Naphin

Grunge is on the catwalks, it shines under the spotlight from which it once shied away but its truest essence still beats in the streets, in the garages, in the festivals, in the souls of those seeking their own voice, in the underground creations, for escape approval. It has evolved, transformed, but has not lost its ability to shake foundations. And this is precisely what Psylo does: not a movement crystallised over time, but a constantly evolving idea, capable of adapting and speaking to new generations without losing its rebellious soul… everything else “Nevermind”!