Robert Smith on the set of “Boys Don’t Cry” video (photo by Andy Vella, 1986)

Robert Smith: The Immortal Icon Who Redefined Dark and Alternative Fashion

November 14, 2024

Robert Smith needs no introduction. The Cure's frontman is more than just a musician he's a cultural pioneer, an alternative fashion icon, and the muse of an entire generation. With the release of their latest album, Songs of a Lost World, Smith continues to prove his relevance, not only as a musical visionary but also as a style icon. For anyone who lives and breathes alternative fashion, he embodies a subculture that blends darkness, romance, and rebellion in an unmistakable mix. But how did he manage to leave such a mark on fashion? Let's dive in.

Turning Chaos into style: Smith and the dark aesthetic

The influence on alternative fashion trends

Robert Smith - Galerie Prints - Premium Photographic Prints/Photo by Kevin Westenberg

Robert Smith - Galerie Prints - Premium Photographic Prints/Photo by Kevin Westenberg

Smith's ghostly pallor, eyes darkened by kohl, a riotous shock of unkempt hair and that smeared red lipstick, symbolised a kind of beautiful disarray. He redefined goth and dark fashion, creating an aesthetic that was unapologetically black, poetic, and chaotic. In an era obsessed with perfection and rigid conformity, he brought forward oversized clothing reminiscent of grunge – like his long-sleeved classic shirts in black or white, often paired with worn baggy jeans and mismatched chunky trainers.

Worth mentioning is the brief shift during the Disintegration era, when Smith began wearing printed shirts, some bought from the women’s store MS Selfridges, as he revealed in an interview with NME. His eclectic wardrobe choices not only influenced his audience but also found their way to stalls in Camden Market, where fans could find replicas of his distinctive style. Smith wasn't about blending in; he stood defiantly apart, inspiring generations to follow their instincts and push the boundaries of convention.

The Smith effect: between goth and post-punk

Evolution of post-punk alternative style

Robert Smith of The Cure in 1989 (photo by Frans Schellekens/Redferns)

Robert Smith of The Cure in 1989 (photo by Frans Schellekens/Redferns)

Smith's contributions to alternative fashion run deeper than his iconic attire. He took classic goth staples – dark fabrics, lace, dramatic and flowing jackets – and fused them with the raw, almost reckless energy of post-punk. This synthesis created a signature style that became an emblem of the counterculture. Today, his influence resonates, with designers drawing inspiration from his aesthetic and artists seeking to emulate that sense of alienation turned into beauty.

The Cure - Glastonbury Festival - 21st June 1986 (gullickphoto)

The Cure - Glastonbury Festival - 21st June 1986 (gullickphoto)

One such moment that epitomizes this impact was The Cure's performance at the Glastonbury Festival in 1986. Smith's appearance – clad in all-black attire, with his characteristic wild hair and dramatic makeup – not only captivated the audience but also cemented goth as more than just a fleeting trend, turning it into a lasting subcultural movement. This performance was instrumental in bringing goth fashion into the mainstream, inspiring countless young people to express their individuality through their clothing.

Makeup as a manifesto

Gender expression through alternative fashion

“Pictures of you” by Tom Sheehan (Welbeck Publishing, Oct 2022)

“Pictures of you” by Tom Sheehan (Welbeck Publishing, Oct 2022)

Smith never wore makeup just for aesthetics. The black eyeliner and smeared lipstick are a statement, a challenge to the gender norms of the '80s, which were rigid and stifling. At a time when men and women were supposed to stay in their lanes, he chose to break the rules. He blazed a trail for gender fluidity, inspiring anyone wanting to express themselves without limitations, making makeup a symbol of freedom.

A legacy beyond music

Cultural resonance in goth and alternative scenes

Starting out in the late 1970s with The Cure, Robert Smith quickly established himself as one of the most compelling figures in the burgeoning post-punk scene. Albums like Seventeen Seconds, Faith, and Pornography defined the dark, introspective sound that would go on to influence countless bands and cement The Cure’s status as the architects of goth rock. With The Head on the Door and Kiss Me, Kiss Me, Kiss Me, the band expanded their sonic palette, embracing elements of pop without sacrificing their dark, enigmatic core.

Then came Disintegration, the magnum opus that remains one of the most critically acclaimed albums of all time, capturing the melancholic beauty and existential depth that made The Cure a household name. Through highs and lows, lineup changes, and cultural shifts, Smith’s unwavering vision has kept The Cure not just relevant, but continually inspiring, making them a touchstone for both music and fashion subcultures. More than a musical legend, Smith is a beacon of individuality and rebellion. His influence transcends fashion, shaping the goth and post-punk music scene with iconic albums like Disintegration and Pornography. He turned pain and alienation into art, creating a soundtrack for anyone who's ever felt out of place. An icon who continues to inspire, always one step ahead of the rest of the world.

The Cure - Disintegration

Psylo Fashion and his legacy

Inspiration for alternative clothing lines

At Psylo Fashion, we draw inspiration from icons like Robert Smith to design collections that defy conventions. Like Smith, we believe in pushing boundaries and embracing personal expression. Smith used music, art and fashion as a medium to communicate his worldview – an unapologetic blend of darkness, beauty, and rebellion – and we strive to do the same. Just as Smith's music and fashion became a voice for those on the fringes, Psylo aims to create clothing that empowers individuals to express their true selves. For us, alternative fashion is about showing who you are without compromise.

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*Banner Image: Robert Smith on the set of “Boys Don’t Cry” video (photo by Andy Vella, 1986)

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